Houseplant Light Chart: Where to Place 50 Popular Plants by Window & Light Levels
Confused about what “low light” really means? This practical guide breaks down light needs for 50 houseplants using window direction, distance, and sunlight hours—no light meter needed.
We used to think “low light plants” meant “no light plants” Stick a plant in a shadowy corner, and it’ll be fine, right? Turns out… not really. Our peace lily, for instance, was the first to suffer. It lived across the room from a north-facing window, and within a month, the leaves drooped and stopped growing.
That’s when we realized “low light” means “just enough to survive.” It’s not a death sentence—but it’s also not a growth plan. Most low light houseplants don’t want direct sun, sure. But they still need indirect light—the kind that filters in for several hours a day, ideally from the side.
According to Houseplant Journal, even so-called “tolerant” plants still need consistent exposure. Without it, they don’t die fast—but they do fade, stretch, or stall. We’ve tried light meters and foot-candle charts. But what helped the most? Looking at window direction, distance, and time of day.
This guide is built around that. No numbers to memorize. No apps. Just real-life benchmarks you can use to decide: “Will my plant be happy here?” Lets dive in!
Visual Guide: Understand Light Levels at Home
We wanted a light chart that made sense for everyday plant parents. So we tossed out lux and foot-candle numbers and asked: what’s actually useful? In our home, we rarely use meters. We use window direction and distance from that window—because that’s what’s visible, repeatable, and real.
Here is a quick refresher on the window direction and its light levels.
- South-facing windows? Brightest all day.
- East-facing? Gentle morning light.
- West? Harsh, late afternoon sun.
- North? Cool, steady, but dim.
We noticed that once a plant moves beyond 5–6 feet, even from a sunny window, its growth slows. That’s why distance is just as important as direction. A fiddle leaf fig that’s three feet from a south window thrives. Move it to six feet in a north room, and it might stop growing altogether.
This style of measuring light isn’t perfect—but it’s practical. It’s what us ‘novice’ houseplant parents could follow, and we hope and think will be easy for most of you to follow as well. So if you’ve been unsure whether your plant’s spot is too dim, too far, or just not right—this chart is for you.
The Light Placement Chart: 50 Popular Houseplants
You’ll find our full chart below—organized by plant, with their survival and thriving zones.
We list exactly how far they can be from a north/east window and a south/west window—both minimum and ideal. And we included a quick note for each plant so you know what to expect.
Plant Name | Survival Scenario | Thriving Scenario | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Tolerates very low light, but its yellow variegation may fade to green if kept too far from a light source. More light (avoid direct sun) keeps foliage fuller and variegation bright. |
Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata) | North/East window: Maximum 8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Extremely low-light tolerant and can survive in dim corners, but growth slows to a crawl without sufficient light. New leaves emerge faster and sturdier in partial sun (direct sun can scorch them). |
Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis) | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Requires abundant light – at least ~6 hours of sun – to stay compact and healthy. Inadequate light leads to tall, pale, leggy growth as it stretches for the sun, and it may not thrive at all without a sunny window. |
Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum spp.) | North/East window: Maximum 8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | One of the few plants that will flower in very low light, though it will do so sparsely. It truly grows best in brighter conditions – low light survival often means no blooms and slower growth (but the plant stays alive). |
Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis hybrids) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Needs bright, indirect light to rebloom; it will not grow or flower well in poorly lit areas. Direct sun can redden or scorch the leaves, so provide filtered light. East-facing light or a shaded south window is ideal for abundant blooms. |
Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Adaptable to low light but with slower growth – the more light it receives, the bolder its green-and-white striping. In very low light it may produce fewer offshoot “spiderettes.” Avoid direct sun, which can scorch tips. |
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) | North/East window: At window (about 1 foot) | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Too little light causes jade to develop narrow, grayish leaves and weak, leggy growth. It really thrives with some direct sun – a south-facing window keeps it compact and vigorous. Without adequate light it will survive, but become sparse and may not bloom. |
African Violet (Saintpaulia ionantha) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: Within 1 foot of window | Needs to be very close to the window to bloom. Does best with some daily direct sun, especially in winter. It will survive in moderately low light, but likely will not flower and may develop thin, dark foliage. |
Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica) | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | In low light it will survive, but likely drop lower leaves and grow slower. It thrives and grows lush with brighter conditions, and may also produce a red sheath around each new leaf in strong light. |
Money Tree (Pachira aquatica) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Tolerant of low light (hence popular in offices), but will drop leaves if kept too dark for too long. Brighter light encourages steadier growth and prevents over-elongation of stems as the tree reaches upward. |
ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) | North/East window: Maximum 8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | The ultimate low-light survivor, often living in windowless offices under fluorescent lights. Growth is extremely slow in such conditions, but the plant remains alive. It grows more quickly and produces new shoots in brighter, indirect light. |
Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Requires higher humidity and consistent moisture, which can be challenging in low-light spots. It will survive in medium light but fronds may yellow over time if kept too dim. Thrives with bright, indirect light and moist soil, producing vibrant green fronds. |
English Ivy (Hedera helix) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Survives in moderate light, but can become leggy and sparse in too much shade. Ivy benefits from brighter light to keep dense foliage. Direct sun can scorch its leaves, so bright indirect light is ideal for vigorous growth. |
Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Very tolerant of low light; darker varieties in particular can live with minimal natural light. However, their variegation and growth improve with more light. Avoid direct sun, which can cause leaves to bleach or burn. |
Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior) | North/East window: Maximum 8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | Almost indestructible in low light, hence its common name. It survives in conditions where many other plants fail. Though it will live in deep shade, it grows extremely slowly; more light (indirect) encourages it to produce new leaves more regularly. |
Philodendron (Heartleaf, Brasil, etc.) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Classic low-light tolerant vining plants. They will survive in fairly dim conditions, though the variegated types (like Brasil) will lose some coloration. In brighter light they grow more robustly and produce larger leaves. Avoid intense sun which can scorch foliage. |
Fittonia (Nerve Plant) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Needs higher humidity and moist soil to truly thrive, which makes it a challenge in low light (because less light means slower drying soil). It will survive in medium light, but its vibrant leaf colors are more pronounced with brighter, indirect light. Keep away from direct sun. |
Umbrella Plant (Schefflera arboricola) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Can tolerate moderately low light, but will grow leggy and sparse. Prefers bright, indirect light for a fuller, healthier appearance. Avoid prolonged deep shade which can lead to leaf drop. Enjoys some direct sun, but too much can burn its leaves. |
Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Very demanding of bright light; it will barely hang on in medium light and tends to drop leaves if kept too dark. Thrives and grows best in a spot with ample light (and even some direct sun). Insufficient light is one of the main reasons fiddle leaf figs fail to thrive. |
Croton (Codiaeum variegatum) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Known for its colorful foliage, it needs significant light to maintain those colors. In low light, crotons often drop leaves and lose vibrancy. They truly thrive with some direct sun (e.g., morning or late afternoon sun) and bright conditions. |
Pothos (Neon, Marble Queen, etc.) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Similar to golden pothos, these varieties tolerate low light but may lose some of their vibrant color in dim conditions. Brighter indirect light keeps their colors vivid and encourages faster growth. Avoid harsh direct sun to prevent leaf burn. |
Peace Lily ‘Domino’ (variegated) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | A variegated peace lily that needs a bit more light than its all-green counterparts to maintain the white streaks on its leaves. It will survive in low light but variegation may fade. Thrives in bright, indirect light and can even handle some gentle morning sun. |
Ivy (variegated types) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Variegated ivies require slightly more light than solid green types; in low light, they can lose their variegation. They will survive in medium light but truly do best with bright, indirect light. Protect from harsh direct sun to avoid leaf burn. |
Alocasia (Elephant Ear) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Needs bright light and high humidity; in low light it often goes dormant, dropping leaves and waiting for better conditions. It may survive in medium light but with few (or no) leaves. Thrives in bright, indirect light and appreciates some gentle sun. |
Bromeliad (indoor varieties) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Many indoor bromeliads (like Guzmania or Vriesea) can tolerate medium light, but may not bloom without brighter conditions. They appreciate good light (without intense sun) to display their colorful bracts. Too low light results in dull color and a lack of flowering. |
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | A forgiving plant that can survive in relatively low light, storing reserves in its bulbous base. Growth is slow in dim conditions, but the plant will live. It grows more vigorously and produces more leaves in bright light, and can handle some direct sun. |
Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Prefers moderate to bright indirect light; too low light can dull its colorful patterns and reduce “prayer” movement at night. It will survive in medium light but thrives with a bit more brightness. Avoid direct sun which can scorch its delicate leaves. |
Aglaonema (Red varieties) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Red Aglaonemas need somewhat more light to maintain their color compared to green ones. They will live in low light but with more muted colors. Bright, indirect light brings out the red hues. Keep out of direct sun to prevent leaf scorch. |
Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Does well in the mid-to-low light range. It will tolerate low light but may become leggy as it stretches towards any available light. Brighter indirect light keeps it fuller and more robust. Its leaves can burn in direct sun, so filtered light is best. |
Rubber Plant (variegated) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Variegated rubber plants need a bit more light than all-green ones to keep their variegation. They can survive in moderate light, but with less contrast in their leaf colors. Bright light (with some sun) helps maintain vibrant variegation. Keep away from intense midday sun. |
Sansevieria (variegated) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Variegated snake plants (like Sansevieria laurentii) can survive in low light, but the yellow leaf margins may fade. They do best in bright, indirect light which maintains their contrast. Direct sun can cause browning on the variegated edges if too intense. |
Spider Plant (variegated) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Similar to the regular spider plant, but the white-striped leaves show better contrast in brighter light. It will survive in low light but the variegation can diminish. Bright, indirect light leads to more vigorous growth and more “spiderette” offshoots. |
Pilea peperomioides (Chinese Money Plant) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Best in bright, indirect light; it will survive in medium light but develops a lean towards the light source if not bright enough (you may need to rotate it). Thrives with some morning or late afternoon sun, which encourages it to produce its little “pups” (offspring plants). |
Cactus (Schlumbergera, holiday cactus) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | These cacti (Thanksgiving/Christmas cactus) will survive in moderate light but often won’t bloom without brighter conditions. They prefer bright, indirect light (and can handle some sun) to set buds. Too low light results in weak, flat growth and few or no flowers. |
Peace Lily (large variety) | North/East window: Maximum 8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | Larger peace lily varieties are just as tolerant of low light as smaller ones but need more light to produce their larger flowers. In low light they may not bloom and growth is slower. They thrive in brighter, indirect light with occasional watering. |
Fern (Maidenhair or delicate types) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | Delicate ferns like maidenhair require consistently moist soil and high humidity, which is tricky in low light because soil stays wet longer. They will survive in medium light if humidity is sufficient, but really flourish with bright, indirect light and proper moisture. Avoid direct sun. |
Alocasia (large varieties) | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Large Alocasia varieties need ample light to sustain their big leaves. In low light, they often shed leaves and go dormant. They can survive in medium light but with fewer leaves at a time. Thrives in bright light (avoid midday sun) and high humidity. |
Philodendron (split-leaf Monstera adansonii) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Can tolerate moderate light but leaves will have fewer holes (fenestrations) in lower light. It grows much more vigorously and produces larger, more fenestrated leaves in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can scorch its delicate foliage. |
Philodendron (large types like selloum) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | Tolerant of moderate light, but large philodendrons grow much better with ample space and brighter conditions. In too low light, new leaves may be small and far apart. Thrives in bright, indirect light, which promotes bigger leaves and a more robust shape. |
Ficus (Benjamina, Audrey, etc.) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | These ficus trees can survive in medium light but often drop leaves when light is insufficient. They prefer bright light and will maintain fuller canopies with it. Avoid moving them around often, and give them as much consistent light as possible to prevent stress and leaf drop. |
Orchid (Oncidium, Dendrobium, etc.) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (0–1 feet) | These orchids need bright, indirect light to bloom well. They will survive in moderate light but may not flower and growth will be slower. Thriving involves ample light and sometimes a bit of direct sun (like early morning sun). Too low light leads to weak, spindly growth and no blooms. |
Palm (Parlor Palm, Areca) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | Parlor palms and areca palms can tolerate low light, but fronds may yellow or drop in too dim conditions. They prefer medium to bright, indirect light for robust growth. In brighter light, they produce more fronds. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the fronds. |
Olive Tree (Olea europaea) | North/East window: Not recommended (far too low light) | North/East window: Not applicable | A Mediterranean olive absolutely needs full sun – it’s essentially a full outdoor sun plant being grown indoors. Only attempt it if you have a sunny south or west-facing window; even then, fruiting is unlikely indoors. In insufficient light, an olive tree will become sparse, dropping leaves until it resembles a twig. Kept right at a sunny window, it can survive and put out slow growth. Without serious light, it will not last. |
Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia spp.) | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | North/East window: At window (morning sun) | A large tropical that hungers for light. Indoors, it will manage in medium light but may not produce its signature flowers without a lot of sun. It truly thrives with abundant bright light and can handle a good amount of direct sun (which it craves). In low light, its leaves may grow smaller and new growth slows significantly. |
Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’) | North/East window: Maximum 6–8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Extremely shade-tolerant – often found in offices and malls with only fluorescent lighting. It will survive in low light but with very slow growth and a tendency to lean or stretch. In brighter light (without direct sun), it remains sturdier and produces new leaves more readily. |
Philodendron ‘Birkin’ | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | This fancy Philodendron with white pinstripes needs more light than typical green philodendrons to maintain its variegation. It will survive in moderate light but the white streaks may dim. Thrives in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can scorch its leaves. |
Tradescantia Zebrina (Wandering Jew) | North/East window: Maximum 4 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 1 foot from window | Known for purple-and-silver striped leaves, it will survive in medium light but the colors may fade to greenish in lower light. It thrives and shows the best coloration in bright light (including some sun). In too low light, it becomes leggy as it stretches for light. |
Hoya (Wax Plant, various species) | North/East window: Maximum 5–6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Many Hoya varieties can survive in surprisingly low light, but they will rarely bloom without good light. In low light they grow slowly, with more space between leaves (long internodes). Thriving Hoyas get plenty of bright, indirect light and even some direct sun, which encourages flowering. |
Monstera deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant) | North/East window: Maximum 6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | A resilient plant that tolerates medium light but develops fewer splits and holes in its leaves under those conditions. In low light it will survive but may not grow much. To truly thrive and develop large, fenestrated leaves, it needs bright light and can even handle some direct sun. |
Dracaena (Generic Dracaena spp.) | North/East window: Maximum 6–8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Most Dracaena varieties (like D. deremensis ‘Warneckei’, or D. marginata) are very tolerant of low light – they often survive in offices with little natural light. In low light, their growth slows and new leaves are smaller. Brighter light conditions lead to more robust growth and better leaf color. Avoid direct sun on certain types, which can scorch their leaves. |
Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia spp.) | North/East window: Maximum 5–6 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 2 feet from window | Does well in the mid-to-low light range. It will survive in low light but may become leggy as it grows towards the light. More light (indirect) keeps it fuller and helps maintain its leaf patterns. Leaves can burn in strong direct sun, so avoid that. |
Calathea (Goeppertia, Calathea spp.) | North/East window: Maximum 6–8 feet from window | North/East window: Maximum 3 feet from window | Calatheas prefer shaded, humid environments – much like a rainforest floor. They can survive in low light, but many varieties will fade or become less vibrant. They thrive with consistent, bright, indirect light and high humidity, which keeps their colors sharp and leaves perky. Avoid direct sun, which can damage their foliage. |
You’ll never look at your windows the same way again. Promise!
How to Measure Light Without a Meter
We’ve tested meters and apps, but they’re overkill for most people. Here’s another we measure light without any tools—just our senses.
The Face Test: Stand where your plant goes. Can you comfortably read a book during the day without turning on a light? If not, it’s probably too dark.
Obstruction Check: Look around. If more than half your view is blocked by walls, curtains, or buildings, light’s being cut down hard.
Know Your Directions:
- South-facing = full-day brightness
- West-facing = strong afternoon light
- East-facing = soft morning glow
- North-facing = lowest, but steady
And when people say “direct sunlight,” they mean literal sunbeams hitting your plant. Most houseplants don’t want that—especially during peak midday hours.
Filtered, dappled, or reflected light is usually better. That’s why sheer curtains are magic in our setup. We can use the brighter windows without frying delicate leaves.
No meters. No graphs. Just eyes, shadows, and common sense. It works.
What to Do If Your Spot Is Too Dim
If your favorite spot isn’t working, don’t give up. We’ve rescued plenty of plants just by making a few adjustments.
First, clean your windows. You’d be shocked how much dust can block the light.
Second, consider sheer curtains—not to reduce light, but to filter it. Especially helpful with west-facing heat.
Third, use mirrors. They bounce light deeper into the room, especially in long or narrow spaces.
Fourth, scoot your plant closer to the window. Even moving from 6 ft to 3 ft can make a visible difference in leaf color and new growth.
And finally—yes, grow lights are great. We’ll link to a few favorites soon, but we usually use them in windowless rooms or for overwintering tropicals.
FAQs
Can I grow plants in a windowless room?
Only with a grow light. Even snake plants need some daily light.
How much sun is too much?
More than 2–3 hours of direct sun will scorch most houseplants unless they’re succulents.
What’s best for a north-facing apartment?
Low-light champs like pothos, ZZ plants, and cast iron plant. Keep them within 2–4 feet of the window.
How can I tell if my plant isn’t getting enough light?
Look for legginess, pale leaves, or zero new growth. It’s usually a sign to move it closer or rotate more often.
How We Compiled This Guide
We live in a Brooklyn brownstone with every kind of light situation—from south-facing windows that roast, to dim, deep corners that test even our toughest plants.
This guide comes from years of trial, error, and way too many “why is this plant dying?” searches.
We pulled from our own experience, and cross-checked our observations with trusted sources like Houseplant Journal, The Spruce, Apartment Therapy, and Better Homes & Gardens.
Everything here is meant to be useful. Real. Implementable. No gadgets required.
